The Enigma is Zambesi. A winter collection that defies obvious definition and manages to deftly combine effortless ease with complexity.
In a collection that references the traditional—trench coats and streamlined suiting—a sense of futurism somehow dominates the mood. Simple concepts like the little black dress become imbued with considered intellectual drama. Pleats and draping create a new sculpturalism while unexpected texture and trademark detailing add depth.
An elongation of line, refocusing proportion while still referencing traditional tailoring defines the collection. Suiting is linear and precise, reliant upon vital yet subliminal detailing like deliberate pick stitching. Wool cashmere imbues a three-quarter length coat with subtle luxury. Three quarter lengths also turn up in interpretations of the trench coat, the factory worker dust coat and toggled duffel coats.
Collegiate references continue with felted wool letterman jackets. Similar sporting influences are present too in trackpant trouser shapes. Suiting trousers continue the lean line of the season’s suiting with both flat-front and pleat-front styles. Slim line jeans in textural contrast combinations, such as PVC and moleskin.
Knitwear
Brushed wool mix adds texture to oversized collegiate jerseys in black with broad stripe sections of contrasting green tea or maroon. Chunky New Zealand Merino invokes the landscape with slouchy cardigans with cable detail and shawl neck jerseys in graded brown or grey merle.
Notable Color is dour and subdued. Ink-saturated shades of navy and cool brown tones are used in unconventional combinations with black as the central axis of the collection for both men and women. Grays are also key in both pale merle felted wool and darker grey pleated suiting.
Geometric prints reinvented in silks and cotton, vintage florals, over dyed soft cotton tartans and abstract landscape patterns also feature. Fabrications include wool, mohair, angora, silk, hi-sheen PVC, felted wool, fine wool gauze.
Accessories
Black matt leather link-detailed belts and bags, Victorian spat boots, customized Chuck Taylors, fur pillbox hats and chunky Merino merle beanies, louche ankle boots and slipper shoes with elongated toes, fine knit neck ties, and removable fur collars for coats.
Zambesi Profile
Born 1979 in New Zealand, Zambesi epitomizes individual spirit, redefining convention with an ironic practicality, confirming its reputation in the global market for strength, beauty and independence.
Designed by Dayne Johnston, the Zambesi men’s collection is designed by Dayne Johnston is inspired by the design values and philosophy of the label. Offering a masculine interpretation, the men’s collection conveys a modern attitude and influence.
"Clothes to wear every day, but not every day clothes."
- Dayne Johnston
Photos & slideshow 2016 autumn/winter collection “The Enigma,” Copyright Zambesi.